Amidst all of the Christmas chaos , let’s remember why we celebrate this particular holiday..the birth of Christ.
Lets also spare a thought for all those people who are homeless, alone, living in refugee camps or in the middle of a war.
I am so grateful for the fact that I am able to celebrate this day with my mum and my sister and that I can Skype our younger sister and her family in Australia….I’m grateful that we have a lovely traditional lunch waiting for us after Church and so much abundance in the form of gifts and good food.
I am very aware that I am among the fortunate, living in an affluent and peaceful country and my heart goes out to those who are not.
Merry Christmas to all and may this be a time of peace and togetherness.
It is the end of the Eid weekend celebrations and I have just arrived back home from Church ….during the sermon, the vicar told us about Islamic religious leaders who had visited our church on Friday morning as part of the celebrations of Eid this weekend. I sat there amazed and pleased as he told us how these religious leaders had spoken to the congregation of an Anglican church and I thought how wonderful it is that we live in a country with open minded and enlightened leaders such as HH Sh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum who allow us to worship openly as Christians in a Muslim country.
Our vicar also told us how there is an open dialogue between our Church leaders and the leaders of all religions in the country-Seikhs, Hindus, Buddists, Catholics and Christians were all invited to the Palace during Ramadan to discuss a number of matters with HH Sh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, our Prime Minister and HH Sh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, our Crown Prince. What a wonderful message of peace and tolerance these inspiring leaders are showing the world.
In a world of such turmoil and religious persecution, I consider myself incredibly fortunate to enjoy an environment of tolerance and understanding we experience in Dubai and the UAE in general.
The Holy Month of Ramadan begins tomorrow and for Muslims all over the world, a month of fasting begins.
This year , the Holy Month has fallen over the extreme summer heat of June and July and it will be particularly difficult for Muslims to abstain from drinking. During the heat one hardly feels like eating anyway, but there is no way I can manage an entire day without water!
Out of respect, non Muslims will also not be able to eat or drink in public and while a lot of people find this is major problem, I really don’t. I find Ramadan to be a much calmer, more sedate time of the year which effectively means we all slow down. When the temperatures hit 48 and higher, I am more than happy to slow down I assure you! We generally end our working day two hours earlier than normal which is great-most of the sites we work on finish early and as it is the law in Dubai that work hours are cut, there is not much one can do after 3pm so I tend to go home and rest which is very beneficial because at the hottest time of the day, one can be indoors out of the heat and humidity.
It is also a time of kindness and generosity and this feeling softens the usually rather busy and callous city. Charities benefit hugely from the most incredible acts of generosity by devout Muslims and its always wonderful to read about our leaders donating millions to the needy. It is my theory that part of the reason why Dubai is such an overwhelming success, is because of the incredible generosity of HH Sh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum and other UAE leaders to the less fortunate.
The only thing which does get worse is the driving, with many drivers rushing to get home in time for Iftar. (breaking the fast) I make a concerted effort to be off the roads by that time but if I am not, I try to be extra vigilant to avoid getting caught up in a fender bender or worse! It can be a bit of a mad dash at times!
To my Muslim readers, I wish you and your families a blessed and peaceful Ramadan.
15 Years ago I arrived in Dubai as an excited and eager decorative painter, ready to start a new challenge. I was accompanied by three South African colleagues and we all had mixed feelings about arriving in what was then a relatively unknown place called Dubai.
I remember the day was warm and clear and everything looked immaculate compared to the hustle and bustle of messy South Africa!
The buildings sparkled like diamonds in the bright morning light and I remember being amazed at how the city seemed perched on the sand dunes…back then the road system was in its infancy and there was really only one main road (with two lanes either way) called Sheikh Zayed Road.
It is now a thriving city and there is very little sand to be seen between the high rise steel and glass towers and villas which make up Dubai, and with all the development, I have to say, a lot of the initial charm and fascination I felt in those early days has given way to my somewhat jaded view of life in this strangely surreal place!!
I have learned a LOT living here…I have learned that I love meeting people from all cultures and all walks of life.
I have learned that I have integrity and grit that no matter what, I can still stand strong. I have learned to love Middle Eastern food and that Indian food does not agree with me……I have learned that I HATE shopping in malls (I know I know…what is that all about?) and that I have come to tire of the ” newness” and lack of age and patina which Dubai prides itself on.
I have learned to live in a luxury three bedroom apartment with gym , pool and sauna and I have learned to live in a tiny studio apartment in a suburb almost half an hour out of the city…I have learned to drive really well under conditions which would have most sane people curled up into a ball under a table sobbing and which would challenge the most competent of F1 drivers!
I have learned that while I love good design and style, labels now mean almost nothing to me anymore because almost everyone has Chanel sunglasses, a Louis Vuitton bag or Prada heels. Its a case of overkill I think and I have become almost numbed by the wealth of designer gear I see on a daily basis. (Does that sound awful? I think it might but I don’t mean it to!I know a lot of people feel the same way)
I have learned to speak Hindi and a little Arabic and I have learned to bargain and haggle like a seasoned trader in a marketplace.
I have learned to deal with pressure on projects which 15 years ago would have given me a nervous breakdown and I have learned the phrase ” Inshallah” which basically means all in God’s time! I have learned that here you hurry and wait…you issue quotations based on a prescribed time for your work, the project begins and your work is delayed and delayed until you end up packing 6 months work into 2 months…all for the same price of course. I have learned to work at the strangest of hours in order to complete projects on time and under budget!
I have learned the meaning of true friendship…your friends become your family here because you are so far away from your family back home. I have also learned that while people may appear to be friends, when times are hard a lot of them simply disappear and leave you stranded.
I have learned patience and tolerance for people of all nationalities and all colours and I have learned business skills which I am certain will stand me in good stead in my future endeavors, because nowhere can be as challenging to do business as Dubai, of that I am sure!
I have learned that my heart can ache with an indescribable longing for the country of my birth-something which surprises me regularly…the longing for the smell of the rain , the wide open spaces and the blue of the African sky on a hot summer day. The sadness I feel at the fact that I no longer feel part of what made me the person I am today, is something I constantly push to the back of my mind, yet it is always there, catching me off-guard at the strangest times.
I have learned that as an expat living in a Muslim country I have had to open my mind to the nuances of a religion not dissimilar to my own, and yet perceived by so many to be foreign and unknown. One of the greatest experiences I have had here has been discovering that fundamentally, no matter our religion or Nationality, every human wants almost exactly the same thing for themselves and their children.
I have learned that living in a country ruled by a Monarchy can be an incredibly positive experience and that our ruler, HH Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum , is an inspirational and dynamic leader and is taking this incredible country to unimaginable success.
I have learned of the most incredible acts of charity by our leaders, who donate massive amounts of money to help war torn refugees in Syria and Lebanon, children in Africa and India who have no access to clean water and even expats in the UAE who require medical care and are unable to pay for it. The generosity and hospitality of the local Emirati nation has surprised and delighted me on numerous occasions.
All in all, living the expat life as I have for 15 years, I have grown so much as a person …far more so than I would have had I continued to stay on in South Africa. I think in my heart of hearts I know I will probably not ever live in South Africa again and even if I did, it would be an unsettled existence because of the freedom and safety I have experienced here and the opportunities to travel…Dubai truly is a travel hub and is about 3 hours away from India, Lebanon and Turkey…all incredible destinations to spend a long weekend away. Travel from our airport is the simplest I have ever had to negotiate anywhere in the world -in terms of ease of access and comfort. It is always a thrill to leave from Terminal 3 , even though I am incredibly uptight about flying!!
When it comes to comfort, our lives here are very easy. Salon services are very affordable and one can have nails done, eyebrows threaded and tinted and perhaps a massage for under $70. How are we ever going to go back to “real-life” ? Most of us have domestic help too…I have a wonderful lady who comes once a week to clean my floors ,dust and also do my ironing! Because I usually work until after 6pm every night, this is a huge help as I , like most working women, simply do not have time to do housework after I get home, and having just a Friday as a day off means I do most of my chores (wash clothes, shop for the week etc) on that day and then I am back at work on Saturday…no rest for the wicked it seems!
I do feel that the city has grown at the speed of light and in so doing has lost a lot of its ” Arabic charm” as well as a lot of intimacy …back in the day, it was a lot easier to get around the city very quickly and I knew a lot more people because there were two or three “watering holes” and only one or two clubs and everyone went there after work and at weekends. The infamous “brunches” which have landed more than one inebriated young thing on the front pages of the British tabloids, were much more sedate and far less pricey occasions. There were challenges then too of course…I used to have to air freight paints and glazes from South Africa and brushes from the UK because they were just NOT available here . Not only was that inconvenient but costly too ,but slowly the suppliers started bringing in specialist paints and brushes and now I can get pretty much whatever I need…as long as I know where to go!
I am often asked how much longer I will stay here…in short…while there is still work for me, I will continue to stay, but there are plans to move of course..as an expat I can never live here with any sense of permanence and it is most certainly not a place for old people. Too flashy, too fast and too expensive…its a city built for excitement and glamour , not slippers and bingo!
When I do eventually leave, I will miss so much about this insanely busy, maddeningly chaotic city with its glittering buildings, congested roads and more exotic cars than we know what to do with! As I said before, how am I ever going to go back to real life?
It seems such a short time ago that I was writing about the cool weather and its already starting to warm up again….it’s only May and already 37 degrees C during the day!! I am devastated…I do hope this does not mean a long hot summer….it will be my 16th and I am already over it!
My three projects are finally winding up with just a few touch-ups to be completed before I can pull the teams off site and invoice all the clients…now the hard work starts…getting paid! It is usually quite a process with the most incredible amount of paperwork involved in order to reach the point where a cheque is issued and I can deposit it into my bank account. Before we leave site I require an approval from the consultant or architect (they have to sign off on the work we have done) I then submit that to the main contractor who will issue me with a certificate of completion (to confirm that we have indeed completed the work). All of this then accompanies my invoice along with an O and M manual (which basically instructs the hotel/owner of the villa how to maintain the decorative finish we have just applied to the walls) and a guarantee which is usually for as period of three to five years.
Once all of these bits of paper have been submitted, I then have to wait a minimum of 30 days and sometimes longer to finally get my money!
Is it worth it you ask? I am not that sure any more….I try and execute two or three really large projects a year and intersperse them with smaller projects which can be completed really quickly and also pay quickly and this usually keeps our cash flow healthy. We become unstuck when we have back to back large projects and they all delay payment!!
At the moment I am doing a large designer pot project for a luxury hotel in Downtown Dubai. These pots are unique in that they are made of fiberglass and then we apply a painted finish to the finished atricle. I will be visiting the site within the next couple of weeks to take photos of the end result which will be great I am sure.
My next big project is about 600 designer pots for a huge residential project in Saudi Arabia…the best part of it is that I can actually do all of the pots in our warehouse and simply have them all delivered. We will have to produce about 50 per month in order to meet our deadline so I am going to be hard at work for the next 8-9 months!
The summer is almost over..I can feel it in the temperatures which are by no means cool, but definitely not the insane heat we had been experiencing a month ago. The traffic has picked up again as people have returned from their vacations and schools started again this week and finally,everyone’s schedules are getting back to normal again! The chaos on the roads yesterday morning with all the back to school traffic was beyond belief!!
For me all of this bustle means a marked uptake in the level of business and suddenly we have three projects (all urgent of course!) on our books….this summer has been unusually quiet while we have been waiting for approvals and orders for projects but it certainly has kicked up a gear now!!
We are currently working on samples for a hotel project which features custom designed plant pots with stenciled designs…
I am also refurbishing some existing work at one of the luxury hotels in Dubai…its going to be a fun but challenging job which I will share more about in a later post!
Just yesterday I received an inquiry to do some decorative plaster work on the exterior of a building which is being built for a well known coffee chain…that should be pretty tough for my painters particularly as we are going to have to do all of the work on site and in the heat! Thank goodness the weather is improving day by day…I am submitting samples for this and another project based in Saudi on Monday next week…all in all I would say that my plate is full..in a really good way!! I am very grateful for this as a few years back I was not sure that my business would ever be back on track again when the whole industry crashed.
With all the incredible mega-projects being announced, Dubai appears to be booming again and even villas are in very short supply.I heard a report on the radio yesterday which said that if the population continues to grow at the current rate, Dubai will require another 30 000 villas within the next 5 years. That is scary….but for someone in my line of work, this is certainly the place to be!
During the Holy Month, it can be quite a challenge to find somewhere to meet for a coffee or a quick bite to eat. I discovered a great list of eateries which are open during the day and thought I would share it for any Dubai readers who were unaware of these places.
If like me, you need to meet a client or a friend at a coffee shop or restaurant and during Ramadan, this can be difficult to accomplish unless one has a comprehensive list of where to go!